Soil testing & kits

Ostrodamus

Ostrodamus

Member
Location
Southern Colorado
First name
Fox
Hardiness zone
6a
I used a MySoil test kit this year and was really happy with the results. For those of you who may not be familiar with the kit, it tests for a range of nutrients (13 nutrients) and then gives you recommendations on amendments. This year I was thinking about going with a Whitetail Institute test kit that tests for much less (lime, N, P, K). I guess my questions are...

1) Is it really worth paying twice the price to have 10 additional nutrients tested for?
2) Does knowing more nutrient contents directly equate to better/specific amendment recommendations? (I.E. The basic 3 nutrient results would recommend Fertilizer A, but knowing the additional 10 nutrients would change it from Fertilizer A to Fertilizer B) <--- Is that a thing?
3) If I have 6 garden beds, should I test them all? Why or why not?

References:
MySoil Test Kit
Whitetail Institute Test Kit
 

Here in Georgia our county Ag extension office takes your soil sample and tests it for the following for 6 bucks.​

​

(Routine Test)​

pH, Lime requirement, Phosphorus, Potassium, Calcium, Magnesium, Zinc, Manganese

Fee: $6.00*

They request you take samples from different areas and put it all together. That's all I find necessary to test for.
 
Ostrodamus said:
I used a MySoil test kit this year and was really happy with the results. For those of you who may not be familiar with the kit, it tests for a range of nutrients (13 nutrients) and then gives you recommendations on amendments. This year I was thinking about going with a Whitetail Institute test kit that tests for much less (lime, N, P, K). I guess my questions are...
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I have used MySoil test kits for many years. IMO, they are the best by far.

For example, do you grow brassicas and does Whitetail test for boron? MySoil does and my first test result with MySoil years ago showed virtually zero boron in my soil. After solving that deficiency, the broccoli, cabbage, etc. I grew was incredible.

Ostrodamus said:
1) Is it really worth paying twice the price to have 10 additional nutrients tested for?
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For me YES absolutely! For you...only you can determine that.

Ostrodamus said:
2) Does knowing more nutrient contents directly equate to better/specific amendment recommendations? (I.E. The basic 3 nutrient results would recommend Fertilizer A, but knowing the additional 10 nutrients would change it from Fertilizer A to Fertilizer B) <--- Is that a thing?
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Yes but perhaps more importantly the nutrient density score they provide, which to my knowledge no one else provides, yields a unique insight to the likely nutrients in the food you are producing. I find that worth the price of admission...but then I care very much about the nutrient values of the food I eat. I believe that is arguably the most important reason to grow your own veggies. We are what we eat and you can't put a price on that.

For the most recent six past years, my soil has tested above 90% nutrient density. The recommendation from the MySoil lab has been " No N,P, K required" in each of those years. I do not use any synthetic fertilizers nor any pesticides or fungicides or herbicides in my garden and haven't for decades. Thanks to MySoil and their rigorous testing, I no longer have to test my soil regularly. I know pretty much precisely what it takes to get above 90% nutrient density score and "No N,P,K required" without testing.

Ostrodamus said:
3) If I have 6 garden beds, should I test them all? Why or why not?
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If someone is more concerned about the cost of the test, rather than the value of the results...probably not.

My approach requires a baseline. I rely on knowing what my soil needs and have the knowledge to provide those needs totally organically.

Providing nutritious fresh food is probably the single most important thing I do for myself and family. Testing removes the guesswork.
 
I have decided to test 4/6 beds, as I have 2 matching pairs of beds that technically should be the same (in theory). What is the ideal timeline for testing? I currently have a garden full of growing crops. I have an entire compost bin I've been mixing all season and should be in its final form in about a month.

My initial thoughts were to test after the end of season (fall 2024), then amend the soil with compost.

or

Test (fall 2024), amend with recommendations from MySoil. Then add compost as a finishing move just prior to planting (spring 2025).

Do I even need both an amendment and additional compost?
 
Ostrodamus said:
I have decided to test 4/6 beds, as I have 2 matching pairs of beds that technically should be the same (in theory). What is the ideal timeline for testing? I currently have a garden full of growing crops. I have an entire compost bin I've been mixing all season and should be in its final form in about a month.

My initial thoughts were to test after the end of season (fall 2024), then amend the soil with compost.

or

Test (fall 2024), amend with recommendations from MySoil. Then add compost as a finishing move just prior to planting (spring 2025).

Do I even need both an amendment and additional compost?
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I would personally, (and it's only how I would do it if I lived somewhere where I was not planting in winter due to cold temps) wait until early spring and then add whatever the test recommends. By then you'll likely have more compost and what you have now will be really well aged.
 
What I would do...immediately after harvest this fall is run a soil test to get a baseline. Then while waiting on soil test results add several inches of compost (preferably composted animal manure) and plant a thick cover crop. The sooner the better for getting the cover going. Cereal rye, clovers, Austrian peas, vetch, alfalfa would all work well in your area. Next spring, turn that green manure cover into the soil. After giving some time to assimilate, run another soil test. You now have a baseline and improved soil which can be amended further per the soil test. You also will have obtained invaluable knowledge as to the effects of adding rich compost and using cover crops. Knowledge isn't usually free...that is any worth having.

That's what I would do...but you may consider that too much money and trouble...or maybe TMI. :D
 
Meadowlark said:
What I would do...immediately after harvest this fall is run a soil test to get a baseline. Then while waiting on soil test results add several inches of compost (preferably composted animal manure) and plant a thick cover crop.
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When preparing the soil for planting the cover crop, do I want to pull up the old roots from the veggies that were just there? I usually chop and drop and leave the roots, but this is my first cover crop experience, and it doesn't specify on the seed packets.
 
Ostrodamus said:
When preparing the soil for planting the cover crop, do I want to pull up the old roots from the veggies that were just there? I usually chop and drop and leave the roots, but this is my first cover crop experience, and it doesn't specify on the seed packets.
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It depends....on several considerations. My thoughts:

1) If any of the "old" veggies have shown any fungal disease (any at all), remove them and dispose of them separate from the garden system soils. I pretty much would say the same for insect damage especially any caterpillar type of damage.

2) Depends on the cover crop...for example, for cereal rye, no till works fine, just overseed. For alfalfa, I prefer a clean seed bed to get the best germination. It varies with the cover crop you choose. Generally, the seed packet will say whether the seed needs a "clean" bed or not.

3) Having said that, the best cover germination and weed control comes from a clean prepared bed and thickly seeded covers.

4) Chop and drop is effective and is especially efficient when you are using that technique to grow multiple generations of a self-seeded cover. For example, I often use cow (field) peas as warm weather cover and let them mature and chop and drop enabling the peas to regenerate. Soy beans can work this way also. I've gotten four generations of cow peas in a growing season all for the cost of only one seeding. Very efficient and highly effective.
 
I had two plants (squash) in the same 16.5' bed that were next to each other and developed powdery mildew. In this case you recommend ripping up all the roots in that entire bed? The cover crops I have this year are; crimson clover, pea & oat and Lady Phacelia.

Normally the entire garden self-seeds with a thick tansy mustard that existed for decades before I arrived (I'm told). I HATE TANSY MUSTARD!!!
 
Ostrodamus said:
I had two plants (squash) in the same 16.5' bed that were next to each other and developed powdery mildew. In this case you recommend ripping up all the roots in that entire bed? The cover crops I have this year are; crimson clover, pea & oat and Lady Phacelia.
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Yes...and disposing it in a burn pile or anything other than your compost that could return to the garden.

I really like Austrian peas for winter cover. Very Hardy probably even in your zone and great nitrogen fixing. Crimson is excellent also. Not being familiar with Lacy Phacelia- Phacelia tenacetifolia so I had to look it up, but very interesting plant and should be excellent for weed control.

I'm thinking you could possibly get away with overseeding those, the clover and peas for sure, but not sure of Lacy phacella. It has to be getting late for your zone...so better hurry!!.
 
I specifically chose the Lacy Phacelia because I was hoping it would combat the weeds back there. They're my primary annoyance the past 2 seasons. Ahhhh ok. Maybe I'll try the other two this season and see how it goes first.

Thanks for all the help everyone!!
 
I got my results back. Feel free to give me your feedback. I plan on just amending all the beds with 12-0-0 fertilizer as recommended. Eventually putting my compost on them when it's finished.MySoil 1&4 Beds.webpMySoil Bed 2.webpMySoil Garage Bed.webpMySoil Tomato Bed.webp
 
I would add everything that came out as low. Not just nitrogen, but also Ironite to increase your iron levels, Boron and a bit of manganese. Once all your nutrients are at optimal levels your plants will be healthier stronger and will be less attractive to pests.
 
That is a good test result @Ostrodamus . I consider the 68% nutrient density score to be low. I strive for scores consistently above 90%. Why? Because I believe nutrient dense veggies are far more healthy for you and they taste significantly better also.

The way I raise that score (as well as add nitrogen) is through the use of legume green manure via chop and drop and cover crops featuring again legumes. Your cover crop was started kind of late this year but it has been a warm fall so you might still have an effective cover crop to get that nitrogen and nutrient density score up.

The only other thing I would be concerned about in your test ( and that would be only if you are growing brassicas) would be the boron level. Brassicas need boron to thrive as I have found through experience. It is easily added...comes in a liquid, just add water and apply. This is what I use via Amazon:

boron.webp
 
I didn't actually end up using the cover crops. The newborn just took too much of my time and I got way too far behind. Also, as for the brassicas, I only planted them this year as a tester (not knowing anything about growing them). Out of the 30 plants seeded, I have a single broccoli that has formed, all the others were either munched by grasshoppers or produced nothing but leaves.
 
Tetters said:
Not at all sure I agree with this. Most of the knowledge I have picked up over the years is accidental, and most definitely free! 🥴
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I dig a hole, I stick stuff in it. If it dies I try no remember not to do it again next year. If it grows I try to remember to repeat it next year. Every year I stick something new in the ground and wait. My entire knowledge is from the little tags that come with the plant. :ROFLMAO: Some people here will think "what a lazy ass idiot". And they would be right :cool:
 
Ostrodamus said:
Out of the 30 plants seeded, I have a single broccoli that has formed, all the others were either munched by grasshoppers or produced nothing but leaves.
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Those that didn't produce could well be because of the low Boron. Years ago I had trouble growing those big white cauliflower heads and when I checked my soil test I realized why. Problem solved via Boron.
 
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